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Opiniones de los críticos

Descubra lo que piensan los críticos sobre este vino.

James Suckling

95

“Excellent depth of black fruits, but the Mediterranean herb aromas dominate the fruit. Then the concentrated and very structured palate sweeps you away in a gentle and sensual way. Wonderful interplay of ripeness and expertly crafted fine tannins through the long, elegant finish. A cuvee 75% grenache, 10% syrah, 10% mourvedre and 5% cinsault that were co-fermented, then matured in foudre.”

Jeb Dunnuck

95

“The 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape is another winner from this team, and readers can’t go wrong here. Based on 75% Grenache, 10% each of Syrah and Mourvedre, with the balance Cinsault, it was partially destemmed and brought up all in foudre. This beauty just about jumps out of the glass with its Provençal aromatics of ripe cherries, ground pepper, saddle leather, garrigue, and spice. These carry to a medium to full-bodied wine that has the vintage’s charming, pure character front and center, yet still brings good mid-palate density and ripe tannins. Buy a case, count yourself lucky, and enjoy bottles any time over the coming 10-15 years.”

Robert Parker

94

“Vieux Donjon's 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape is a balanced, harmonious effort that offers up pretty aromas of strawberries, raspberries and cherries, accented by hints of crushed stone and dusty earth. It's full-bodied and supple, with a long, silky-textured finish. Richer and riper than the 2021, it shows great harmony and texture. Tasted twice (once blind), with consistent notes.”

At Le Vieux Donjon, Claire Michel and her brother, François, kindly offered a brief vertical of their red wines, including the 2021, 2020, 2019, 2016 and 2010 vintages. This fairly traditional estate continues to fashion a single red wine and a single white wine each year, putting them in what seems to be an ever-shrinking minority of producers.

The white wine is a blend of Clairette and Roussanne, made entirely in stainless steel, and grown near the bottom of Cabrières, where the clay is particularly abundant amid the limestone. "It's a good terroir for whites," said François. The Michels report that they are picking their Roussanne earlier than they used to, focusing on retaining freshness. In 2022, the Roussanne was picked on August 22, the Clairette on September 3.

The red wine matures in foudres or concrete tanks, so it also sees rather neutral aging. The wine is blended in December the year following the harvest, then put back into foudre or tank until bottling, several months later. François recalls 2021 as, "a normal summer, not too warm, not too dry. Very classical and easy, up until the end, when we had several rain episodes—three or four."

As at many estates, the 2021 red wine has turned out better than was expected when the grapes were harvested, and the 2021 Le Vieux Donjon, while it doesn't measure up to the wines from great vintages, is an excellent wine.

Published: Sep 29, 2023

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